DISASSEMBLY OF FUJITSU
P-2040, 2046, 2110, 2120 LAPTOPS
- The ORDER OF DISASSEMBLY is the main purpose of these
instructions and should be followed carefully, although this is not the only
(or most efficient) way to disassemble a P.
procedure is not for beginners!! These are only
general instructions, and it is assumed you will be able to figure out the
details from previous experience.
- There are many different screw types and LENGTHS on the
P, so it is CRITICAL that you keep very careful track of where each and every
screw came from, so you can put it back where it belongs.
- You will need to disconnect many internal wiring
connectors. Many (but not all) of these connectors are "interlocked" which
means they have some sort of plastic lever that you must disengage before you
can disconnect the cable. Each connector uses a different locking mechanism.
Some have a brown lever that must be swung out in order to release the cable.
The wide keyboard connector must be lifted straight up to release the cable.
- There may be some small errors or omissions in these
instructions. Please use common sense as you go through the instructions!
Someday I may add some photos, but the written steps should be sufficient and
should make sense when you are looking at the actual laptop. You can also
review my Visible P photos before beginning
- Please do not hesitate to contact me if you see
any errors or have any suggestions.
- Remove the 3 chrome screws from the hard drive cover,
and remove the hard drive. Be very careful not to put any strain on the ribbon
cable, because the other end of the cable (not visible) connects to the
motherboard with a very flimsy connector.
If any damage is done, a hard drive
data recovery service may
salvage your data.
- Follow the steps in the memory upgrade instructions to
lift off the keyboard (this involves removing 1 chrome screw from the case
bottom, then removing the plastic strip below the space bar).
- Disconnect the keyboard cable, which is a wide ribbon
cable. The connector has a black locking strip which must be lifted straight up. Disconnect
the track-point cable, which is a narrow ribbon cable with a brown locking
lever. The keyboard is permanently attached to the case with 2 black tape
strips. You can peal off these black strips and put the keyboard aside, or
just leave the keyboard attached to the case.
- Remove the 2 black screws in the lower left corner of
the keyboard cavity, under the spot where the Fn and Alt keys were located.
- Close the LCD panel and flip the P upside down. Eject
the DVD drive, and remove the 3 black screws along the edge on the underside
of the DVD drive cavity.
- Remove the remaining 5 silver screws from the case
bottom. All the screws look very similar, but note that one of them is a
different type. Remove the 3 chrome screws around the perimeter of the hard
drive bay. While holding the two halves of the case together, flip the P right-side up again.
- On the rear of the case, just above the NIC connector, there is a U shaped 1" wide section of plastic that is held down with 2
visible locking tabs. You will need to lift it away from the locking
tabs, by inserting a razor blade or very thin knife in the horizontal gap
between the U shaped plastic piece and the bottom half of the case..
- Swing the LCD panel all the way out, so that it is
lying flat horizontally. Disconnect the speaker cable, located in the keyboard
cavity just underneath where the down arrow key would be. It has a white
connector and is not interlocked. Disconnect the mouse button cable, which is
a narrow ribbon cable located in the keyboard cavity just underneath where the
spacebar would be. It has a brown release lever. You can now lift the top half
of the case (which the keyboard sits into) straight up and set it aside.
- Remove the aluminum sheet metal heat sink, held down by
2 chrome screws, and the Mini-PCI card shield, held down by 2 black screws.
The two may be held together by a strip of cloth tape and may need to be
removed together in one step. The tape may need to be peeled off from one or
more places in order to remove the heat sink. NOTE: In the remaining steps, be
very careful not to touch the 'rubber' heat conductors which cover the CPU and
video chip. They are very delicate.
- The next 7 sub-steps are for removing and disassembling
the LCD panel:
- Disconnect the thin round coax cable from the Mini-PCI card. This snaps off
by prying it up. You may have to peel of a couple of pieces of tape to free
the coax cable.
- Disconnect the white ribbon cable near the upper-left corner of the
motherboard. It has a brown release lever. The other end can be left attached.
This cable is not attached to the LCD panel, but one end must be disconnected
in order to move it out of the way of another cable which does go to the LCD.
- Disconnect the 2 cables just behind the white ribbon cable. Nether has an
interlock. One connector (for the video signals) has a strip of black tape
which can be grasped in order to pull the connector off. It does require some
force; just pull the tape straight up until the connector snaps off.
- Remove the brass screw recessed into the upper-right corner of the chassis,
which hold down the right LCD hinge. The LCD panel must be swung flat in order
to access this screw.
- Remove the 2 chrome screws from the rear of the case, behind the LCD
- The entire LCD panel can now be lifted straight up and set aside.
- Optional: Disassembly of the LCD panel. This step can
be skipped if you do not need to access the parts contained in the LCD case.
It requires a firm but light hand and should
not be attempted unless you have previous experience.
NOTE: The outside half of the case is rigid magnesium, the inside half (the
bezel around the LCD) is very thin flexible plastic.
1) Peel off the 2 rubber
feet at the upper-left and upper-right corners of the panel, and the 2 round
silver stickers at the lower-left and lower-right corners;
2) Remove the 4 screws
underneath the stickers and rubber feet;
3) Very carefully pry the two halves of
the LCD case apart, using a safety razor blade, working all
around the edge of the case. Insert the edge of the razor into the seam
between the two halves of the case, and use a prying motion to separate
them. Do not push the razor into the seam with a cutting motion, or you
might cut off a locking tab or cut some wiring. The plastic bezel is attached
to the metal frame of the LCD with some double-sided tape, so it will require
some slight force to peel the plastic bezel away from the LCD frame.
NOTE: This step requires a very delicate touch - be extremely careful to avoid breaking
any of the plastic locking tabs which are part of the plastic bezel around the
LCD. If any of the locking tabs breaks, the two halves of the case may no
longer stay tightly together after re-assembly.
4) Once the plastic bezel is
removed, the remaining disassembly steps are straightforward. To remove LCD
panel, once you have removed the 4 screws attaching the LCD to the magnesium
case you must then slide the LCD panel downward slightly in order to unhook it
from the case.
- Remove the 2 chrome screws on the plastic strip which
was uncovered by the removal of the LCD panel, and lift off the plastic strip.
- Remove the mini-PCI card, by bending away the metal
clips on each side. You will need to disconnect the modem cable from the card.
- Remove the small audio jack circuit board, located at
the right-rear corner of the motherboard, near the external mini-VGA
connector. This attaches to the motherboard with a single connector
(underneath), and should easily snap off. Interesting Note: if it were not for
this little audio jack circuit board, the motherboard could be removed without
first removing the entire LCD panel. However, this little audio jack circuit
board covers a small part of the motherboard, and it cannot be removed without
removing the entire LCD panel.
- Disconnect the various connectors around the perimeter
of the motherboard (power, headphone jack board, fan, CMOS battery, hard
drive). You might want to leave the yellow CMOS backup battery connected,
because if you disconnect it you will lose all the BIOS settings, which is OK
as long as you remember what they were all set to. You might also want to
leave the hard drive ribbon cable attached to the motherboard if possible,
because its connector is very flimsy and if the retaining clip breaks off you
will have a major problem.
- You can now lift the motherboard up and out of the
base! There are a few more small circuit boards around the perimeter of the
motherboard, but it will be obvious how to remove those.